One of the many things that I enjoy about living in the Canary Islands is a decent cup of coffee. Gone are the days when “a cup of instant” seemed to be the norm, and I still shudder when I return to the UK for a brief visit. A visit to one of the relatively new, and supposedly trendy, overpriced coffee shops is, for me, an ordeal best avoided. A quick visit out of sheer desperation during a frantic shopping expedition led me into one of the many branches of ‘Costa Lottee’ that are opening up in all of the UK’s High Streets - after all, it did offer “Free Wifi Connection.”
My request for a simple cup of black coffee, no I don’t like mugs, was met with a disinterested look as the spotty youth pointed to a huge variety of coffees on the board above his sentry post.
“Take yer pick,” he slurped, as he continued chewing his gum and picking his finger nail. “That one will do,” I replied, "but I only want a small cup and not a mugful.”
“We only do them mugs,” he replied stabbing at the nearest soup bowl with a fingernail partly hanging from his index finger.
“But I only want a small cup...,” I protested.
Realising that discussion with the spotty youth was pointless, I handed over my ₤3.50 and perched myself on a most uncomfortable stool at the side of an equally unfortunate table with three legs - goodness, they still do Formica! Maybe I should count myself fortunate that the loose fingernail was not floating in my coffee... The coffee was one of the most revolting drinks that I have ever tasted. Two sips and I was gone.
I contrast this with a cafe bar in my nearest town, Vecindario, on the island. It is a real town with real people, and well away from the expensive bars in the south of the island. Here I can get a cup of excellent coffee for 90 cents, sit in comfort and people-watch for as long as I wish. I watch Canarians, Spanish, Chinese, Russians, Germans, Scandinavians, Africans and Indians pass by, together with a rich variety of skin colour, clothing and headgear. It makes me realise once again that I am living in a community where race, colour, faith and language rarely matter. It is a community where most people just get on with each other and I know how fortunate I am.
Back to my cup of coffee. Did you know that coffee is grown in Gran Canaria, as it has been since 1788 when King Carlos III issued a decree ordering the introduction of the first coffee plants to the Island. Today, coffee is produced in very small amounts by local farmers who have kept the tradition of growing and consuming the coffee that they produce for many generations. The coffee is called Finca la Corcovada and is grown in the Valley of Agaete. This valley has a microclimate and a rich soil, perfect for growing coffee, and is grown by Juan Godoy, the only coffee grower in Europe and who is now supplying the UK market.
My memory turns back to Costa Lottee in the UK, and the spotty youth who is, no doubt, still filling his soup-bowl mugs with foul-tasting overpriced coffee. I wonder if he will be serving coffee from Gran Canaria?
About the author: Barrie Mahoney was a teacher, head teacher and school inspector in the UK, as well as a reporter in Spain, before moving to the Canary Islands as a newspaper editor. He is still enjoying life in the sun as a writer and author.
If you enjoyed this article, take a look at Barrie’s websites: www.barriemahoney.com and www.thecanaryislander.com or read his latest book, ‘Letters from the Atlantic’ (ISBN: 978 184 386 6459).
© Barrie Mahoney
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