Tuesday, June 28, 2011

Italy’s Most Romantic Lake: Largo di Garda

Lago di Garda (via Wikipedia)
By Jamie Douglas

The southern part of Switzerland and northern part of Italy were formed in the same manner, around the same time, most likely by Paleolithic glacial action during a time when the alpine ice sheet covered almost all of this area. The glacial movements formed deep crevices between the mountains, which may have started out as eroded river beds, giving the glaciers a perfect bed to grow and move in, thereby creating the lakes in this region that feature steep mountains coming right up out of the water, a truly spectacular sight.


the Glorification of
St. Felix and St. Adauctus
Lago di Garda or Garda Lake is one of the most brilliant examples of this natural phenomenon. It is the largest lake in Italy, encompassing 370 square kilometers, with a maximum depth of 350 meters, well over 1000 feet, while the mean lake level is only about 200 feet. This places the bottom of the lake at a full 800 feet below sea level!

For the nomadic traveler, summertime in this spectacular region is a never to be forgotten experience. The waters of the lake warm up sufficiently in the summer to allow bathing along its shores, and the lake itself is home to several islands, five of which are inhabited, the largest being Isola del Garda, located just north of Isola San Biago. Both of these islands are accessible via launch from San Felice del Benaco, which is home to several 15th to 18th century churches featuring frescoes painted by Carlo Innocenzo Carloni (1686-1775), a native talent from the Lake Como region in Lombardy. After studying in Venice and Rome, he took his considerable talents to Germany, where he was to become a prolific painter of frescos as well as an accomplished engraver, leaving behind a large body of work. For the fresco at the Church of San Felice del Benaco, the work he immortalized there is the Glorification of St. Felix and St. Adauctus, which he created between 1759 to 1761.

Sirmione Castle (via Wikipedia)

At the south end of the lake, the pleasant historical town of Sirmione awaits the weary traveler, offering a great variety of restaurants, bars, hotels, and inns that cater to most tastes and budgets. Not to be missed is the old market, proffering many fresh comestibles from near and far.

In this part of the world, you will of course find yourself surrounded by constant reminders of the history of its early formation by the regional powers, from Roman baths, to villa of the Roman poet Catullus, to the 13th century Scaliger castle and the ancient sulfur springs at the tip of the peninsula, as well as Gardaland, a thoroughly modern amusement park that a large draw for families and kids of all ages during the warm season.

Should you want to spoil yourself, Sirmione is also the home of some world famous spas, offering the weary traveler opportunities for rejuvenation in the facilities of the Virglio and Catullo establishments, where you can experience everything from mud baths to relaxing massages.

While there, take one of the offered excursions around the lake, or if you feel adventurous enough to drive yourself amongst the always hurried Italian drivers, rent a car, as that will allow you to stop as you wish at any given opportunity, and you will not be dragged through any of the many shops that the tour drivers will take you to, hoping for a commission. There will be no shortage of cafés and full service restaurants along the way that will serve you up some fresh caught seafood from the lake. Or better yet, a great bottle of Italian wine, some bread and cheese, a bit of fruit from the market, and good company is all you need for a romantic picnic to savor for a lifetime.

Jamie Douglas
San Rafael, Mendoza
Where the Malbec Wine is Always Fine!


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