Mystical Morocco

Story and Photos by Jamie Douglas

Morocco conjures up images of Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca to many who saw that timeless classic. Today’s Morocco is much more modern that it was even 25 years ago, but the historical areas such as Marrakesh continue to support their classical Arab charm by maintaining the traditional inner city centers where commerce is conducted as it has been since time immemorial.

And who has not heard of the Crosby, Stills, and Nash song Marrakesh Express? There really is such a train operating between Casablanca and Marrakesh. Snake charmers and beggars are still making their living in the plaza fronting the souk, Jemaa el-Fna, one of the most impressive traditional markets in the Arab world. Exploring the medina itself requires a guide. All of the alleys and paths leading to sights, sounds, and smells that embed themselves so deeply in the memory, are so discombobulated to the uninitiated traveler that it is almost mandatory to get lost in there. Having a good guide provides a measure of safety as well as relief from all the merchants’ attempts to hustle the uninitiated.

There are of course pickpockets in abundance, so minimize what you bring with you. What little money you should carry is safest if you put it into the front pocket of relatively snug jeans, with your hand in your pockets while walking about this fascinating, not to be missed UNESCO Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. To quote from Juan Goytisoslo’s speech at the opening meeting for the first proclamation designating Jemaa el-Fna:

The spectacle of Jemaa el-Fna is repeated daily and each day it is different. Everything changes – voices, sounds, gestures, the public which sees, listens, smells, tastes, touches. The oral tradition is framed by one much vaster – that we can call intangible. The Square, as a physical space, shelters a rich oral and intangible tradition.

Morocco of course is much more than just local markets. The Atlantic coast boasts some of the world’s longest and widest beaches. Essaouira’s horseshoe bay has been inviting tourists from all over Europe for many years, and the beaches of Agadir in the south are just as awe-inspiring. Then there are the more northern cities of Fes and Tangiers, where the traveler will encounter a delightful mix of the historical and modern architecture, wide boulevards and narrow alleys just wide enough to let a loaded donkey squeeze through. But beware of those moments when you find yourself being pressed against a wall or into a stand. The mule drivers will not stop for humans.

During the 1950’s through the 1970’s, Morocco was a Mecca for many artists and writers from the US and around the world. Standing out among them are William S. Burroughs, Tennessee Williams, Paul Bowles, and Painter Judith Deim. All of them, plus many more expats, including yours truly, spent many hours in the Argana Café on the famous Djemaa el-Fna Square.

Unfortunately, this hangout became the target of a terrorist attack in April 2011, when 17 people were killed and more than 20 injured. Due to the nature of the location, most of the victims were travelers from all over the globe. The mastermind of the attack was sentenced to death on October 28 2011. But do not fear Morocco. This attack was an aberration, and the danger to the traveler is no more than being in Germany or the UK. Morocco continues to be one of the world’s most fascinating places to explore.

Jamie Douglas

San Rafael, Mendoza

With fond memories of the Beggars Banquet on Jemaa el-Fna square

I encourage you to write to me, jamie@expatdailynews.com with any questions or suggestions you may have, and if necessary, we can establish a voice communication via Skype. Disclaimer: I am not in any travel related business. My advice is based on my own experiences, and is free of charge. (Donations accepted). It is always my pleasure to act as a beneficial counselor to those who are seekers of the next adventure.

Jamie Douglas is an Adventurer, Writer and Photographer with an amazing array of Nikon equipment, and a lifetime of experience traveling and documenting. To contact him for assignments, email: jamie.douglas [at] yahoo.com

See more expat articles by Jamie at

Expat Daily News Latin America.

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